JEWELRY
Diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds - the "big
four" precious gemstones - have dominated high jewelry for centuries, and
with the launch of the latest collection of the most prestigious prisons at
Place Vendôme in Paris, they clearly continue to reign supreme. As expected in
this cleared world, colored diamonds, Colombian emeralds, and Royal Blue
sapphires formed the center of some of the most exclusive gems that debuted
during Couture Week in Paris this July, but the winds of change are blowing.
Some of the most creative new gems include stones that have traditionally been
set as semi-precious, ornamental, or hard stones and are rarely seen in the
natural haute joaillerie outside of minimal accents or as wise foils for big
players.
From opal to onyx, these stones are polished to a finer
cabochon rather than cut to reveal their natural beauty, and it is a unique
shape and texture - in stark contrast to the sparkle of faceted gemstones - along
with bright colors and attractive inclusions and patterns naturally that
inspired jewelry houses to decode high jewelry aesthetics in a thrilling new
way. The best opals have long ordered impressive prices and of course hard
stones have been used in jewelry before: lapis lazuli, topaz, coral and onyx in
particular, are the key to the most dramatic Art Deco designs. What's new is
the innovative way in which this simple cousin of the mineral world is
mobilized to create surprising and beautiful new effects.
While many online retailers now have a part of their
website aimed at semi-finished jewelry as a home for cheaper semi-precious
jewelry, the same rules do not apply to high jewelry. There is nothing valuable
about Australian black opals circling hypnotizing, hypnotizing depicting a
planet, surrounded by stars, in the new Les. These stones may not have the
"big four" gem gravity, but what they bring to this gem is their
unique opacity and organic simplicity that makes them as charming as their valuable
counterparts. The Cinemagia Bulgari collection exudes the charm and luxury of
Dolce Vita and here too, hard stones play a role in adding drama to this
jewelery that is suitable for a diva.
The pure, very saturated color and the very sharp luster
of certain hard stones creates a very different kind of drama with faceted gems
and is very attractive in high jewelry. To be announced in October, Pomellato's
Armonie Minerali collection only features hard stones in striking combinations
in unique rings and pendants. Milan Jewelry wants to open our eyes to the 'new
valuable' that features a union of exotic minerals that have never been seen
before. A strange new sense of beauty can be seen in the Penelope Dream ring
(below) which awakens the Mediterranean horizon in lapis lazuli and chrysocolla
with a group of emeralds joining two stones together.
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